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  1. What's new in this club
  2. Photo Sharpening

    Here's a picture from Burntisland,not one of the sharpest pictures I've taken but the auto mode of the program did a pretty good job It looks even better on the full sized picture
  3. Blurred Moving Rides

    You'll struggle in daylight Bill You could try exposure compensation and make the photo darker although it didn't seem to make a great deal of difference when I tried that (You'd best look in the instructions rather than me explain)
  4. Blurred Moving Rides

    I'm not sure if this is possible in daylight, and if so how. I had a play today (and it was just a play, I didn't take my tripod) The best photo (and not that good) was:- Taken on Shutter priority ISO 100, shutter speed .3s, f/29 (Some of the "stationary" objects are blurred suggesting that a tripod would have been an advantage, but I didn't intend trying till I got there) When I went up in time for the shutter (I tried .4s right up to 1 second), the f stop didn't alter and the photos got whiter and whiter until it was just a white square. Any suggestions gratefully received
  5. Nowadays I don't usually use sharpening on my pictures,It's one thing I don't think Photoshop is good at (although I use CS5,later versions may be better) I've just discovered this ,on special offer at the moment.I've tried it on a few pictures and it does a pretty decent job
  6. Panning

    A definition from the web Panning is a photographic technique that combines a slow shutter speed with camera motion to create a sense of speed around a moving object. It is a way to keep your subject in focus while blurring your background. This picture has had a few outings (no not that sort ) on the forum and I make no apologies for showing it again as it is one of my favourites Harry Jones Miami ,Wolverhampton 2008 Shutter speed 1/30th sec This was about my 1st attempt and also the best,it's not easy and possibly a fairground isn't the ideal place for this sort of shot I've tried it on a few other rides with no real success,but it's not something I do a great deal Loughborough 2017 Shutter speed 1/25sec Easier on the railway although a slightly faster shutter speed to freeze the valve gear would have been better Have any of you tried this ?
  7. Photo Post Processing

    It can take a few minutes per photo, like I said in my post I could take 100s of photos at an event and only end up posting a few on Flickr, a few years ago I used to just upload everything, or run everything through a batch process that used auto levels etc, but a lot of the times I ended up with a lot of duplications or 'poor' photos, so as I got older and learnt more techniques I got more picky over the ones I upload, I think if I went through that process for every photo I'd still be at it a week later! I spent two days in Whitby earlier this week and took 300 photos over the two days, but there's none I liked enough to put online, so they just sit in my own library, I might go back them at a later time though. I recently got Adobe Lightroom too, and it does make editing photos easier, but it still could take as long as my method in Photoshop, and sometimes I end up opening the photo in Photoshop after post processing in Lightroom to do a bit extra work too!
  8. Time Lapse Photography

    Try this tutorial Bill
  9. Photo Post Processing

    How long does that take you Jamie? With the large amount of photos I take (and keep) I don't think there's enough hours in the day for me to use your method For me it's 1) auto levels - sometimes that gives a dodgy result so it's then auto contrast 2) shadows/highlights and occasionally hue/saturation or colour balance
  10. Photoshop

    Photoshop official site
  11. Blurred Moving Rides

    I'm lucky in this respect - the EOS 750D connects to my Android phone and there is an app for remote control
  12. Blurred Moving Rides

    Or instead of a remote you could use the self timer
  13. Blurred Moving Rides

    You have a steadier hand than me Martin With hand held long exposure shots I seem to be a bit unlucky at times,there's either a strong breeze suddenly springs up or some one brushes past me and it sure shows on the picture And as for those folk who deliberately walk in front of you...... But I still say for the best shots you need a tripod
  14. Blurred Moving Rides

    From my experience I basically use the Night Time setting on my Olympus cameras, have a compact X-940 which I mostly use & bridge SP-720UZ which I use at the larger events. Its the case for me of having the steady hand and ensuring the flash is switched off basically. The exposure can be adjusted. The Razzle Dazzle at Hollycombe October 2016 - ISO100 & 1 second delay. The Big Wheel at Hollycombe October 2016 - ISO200 & 2 second delay. These photos were with my compact camera. The length of time is decided by default, ISO can be altered. Not bad for a camera new to me in2010 at £80.
  15. Blurred Moving Rides

    Some really good advice from Tim there take note, i have got much better at free style speed blur but takes practice. Tripod is great for them slightly pro shots.
  16. Blurred Moving Rides

    For exposures up to about half a second a steady hand can produce a good shot but for shots like that of mine in the 1st post a tripod is essential
  17. Blurred Moving Rides

    As mentioned above a tripod is recommended but not essential. I don't class myself as a pro at photography, Most of the time its down to luck. I know my way around my Canon Slr as i had a Nikon Coolpix camera previously to experiment more with. I took these 3 photo's without a tripod. I own a tripod but never use it as i can't stand carrying one around with me. If you adjust the Iso setting to a bigger number, you won't need to keep the shutter open for so long.
  18. In the spirit of the new club I'd thought I'd create a topic going through how I personally post process all my photos. Before I start, remember this is my own method, other people may do things differently, I'm not an expert at Photoshop nor do I pretend to be, these are just a few things I've picked up over the years. I'm aware this is a time consuming process and isn't to everyones taste, I can to a ground, or a concert, or anywhere and take 100s of photos, and I may only end up with a dozen I really love and run through Photoshop to put on my Flickr Software Used Adobe Photoshop, my version is CC 2014 but should be the same for all modern photos So obviously, the first thing to do is to open your photo in Photoshop, I'm going to assume that you familiar with the software to start with as I don't want this to become a beginners guide, but I'm going to try and keep it as simple as possible. The first thing I always do is alter the levels, thanks to Google ... "Levels is a tool in Photoshop and other image editing programs which can move and stretch the brightness levels of an image histogram. It has the power to adjust brightness, contrast, and tonal range by specifying the location of complete black, complete white, and midtones in a histogram." The levels can be found by clicking Image, then Adjustments, then Levels The levels settings are different for every photo, I just drag the sliders slightly to try and get the best results, these are the settings used on this photo, you can immediately see that the photo is a lot more brighter and vivid. The next thing I did on this photo is slightly alter the Hue and Saturation, this can again be found by going into the Image, then adjustments menu, and this time pressing Hue and Saturation On this particular photo I didn't have to alter the settings too much, again I just dragged the Saturation and Brightness sliders a little bit till I got an effect I was happy with, you can again see how the colours, especially the lights on the rides, have brightened. Next is altering the brightness and contrast, this isn't something I do on every photo, I can alter the settings and then decide I liked it better before. The Brightness and Contrast settings can be found under Image, Adjustments again, and pressing Brightness and Contrast As before, its just a case of altering the sliders a little bit until I am happy with it. Finally, I run a high pass filter through it to sharpen the image, the first thing you need to do is to duplicate the photograph, do this by going to Layers, Duplicate Layer, and press OK. You should now have two layers in the file, the background layer, and the one we just created. Next, make sure the new layer is selected, then press Filter, Other, then High Pass Don't worry that the photo has suddenly turned grey, thats the idea! We need to change the slider until we can just about see the detail coming through in the photo, its very rare I have the slider higher than 4.5 before its at a suitable level, when done, press OK The next thing we need to do is to turn our attention to the layers panel on the right hand side, at the top of the panel there's a drop down with 'Normal' selected, you need to open this and change it to Overlay You'll immediately notice that the photo is slightly sharper, if you toggle the layers visibility by pressing the little Eye icon in the layers panel off and on a few times you'll notice the differences. And that's it, thats the basic process I go through with all my photos, some of additional steps such as straightening the image, and some have less, each image is different, below is a few before and afters.
  19. Blurred Moving Rides

    I've never used a remote control when taking long exposure shots, I know there's a risk of shake when the button is pressed on top of the camera, and I have had issues with that in the past, but if you're careful you can try and keep the risk to a minimum, fortunately my camera sometimes takes a split second or so to start taking the photo, especially at night, so the minute shaking from pressing the shutter button has normally stopped by the time the camera has started taking the photo.
  20. Blurred Moving Rides

    One thing I forgot to mention is that you will need a remote control for your camera,or if it is an old camera a cable release
  21. Blurred Moving Rides

    That shot was taken using a tripod and a shutter speed of 6 seconds (in shutter priority mode) If your camera is just a basic one you'll struggle to get pictures like that You need a camera where you can alter the shutter speed,(my Canon EOS 600D can go as far as 30 seconds) and then just try different speeds I can generally use hand held around half a second to a second with no zoom without too much noticeable camera shake,but a tripod is recommended
  22. I've taken a lot of photos at fairgrounds over the past 10 years of being an enthusiast, at the beginning I just had a cheap point and shoot camera, and as my love for the hobby grew, so did my love of photography, these days my photography isn't just limited to funfairs, and if I'm out for the day you can trust I'll have my camera with me. There's a lot of photos I could have picked as my 'best' or 'favourite', both terms are subjective, and I could have a new favourite tomorrow, but for the purpose of this thread I decided on the one below, ever since getting a camera capable of doing long exposure shots, it's always been my favourite thing to photograph, whether its a moving thrill ride at night, a main road at night, or even the sea or a waterfall during the day (I love Waterfall long exposure shots! And if no one minds I'm going to cheekily post this link that shows all of my Long Exposure photos on my Flickr page, you can see all of my photos from the link in my signature) This particular one was taken at Tunstall, Stoke on Trent in Feb 2014 and shows John Noyce's Superstar mid ride, I like this photo due to the variety of colours it shows and the clarity of the image. As to how I got it, well the main item I required was a sturdy tripod, the photo itself was taken on a Fuji Finepix S3380 bridge camera on the 'Shutter Priority' mode, which basically means that most of the camera settings were on auto, but I have control over the shutter speed and a couple of other things, this particular photo had a shutter speed of 5 seconds with an aperture of f9.0, I'm not an expert with photography, but as I understand it, the aperture setting is the sensitivity of the lense, similar to how wide a pupil in an eye goes in the light conditions, the higher the number the less sensitive it is, therefore the less light that gets let in, obviously with having a 5 second exposure a lot of light is hitting the lense, even at night, and there's a danger of it being to bright and over exposed. The other main setting I changed was the ISO value, again, this is to do with how much light the camera lets in, this photo has a very low ISO setting of just 64, again to limit the amount of light hitting the lense to avoid it being over exposed. When I got home I loaded the photo in Photoshop, I can't remember exactly what I changed, but more than likely it would have been the levels, even altering the levels in a photo a little bit can drastically improve a photo and make the colours look more real and natural, I would have probably also edited the hue and saturation, again to brighten it, and run it over with a highpass filter, to slightly sharpen the photo.
  23. I have long harbored a desire to time lapse the build up of a ride and then turn it into video, but have no idea where to start. Any thoughts please? Many thanks Bill
  24. Blurred Moving Rides

    Hi Bill, I have a very simple camera (Canon Powershot SX410IS) and in order for me to get a picture like the above, I change the setting from auto to Long exposure (Long Shutter). But it will never look good unless you rest the camera on something solid or use a tripod (or if you have a super steady hand). When you take the picture it takes a few seconds before it appears on the screen so it needs to be completely steady for that duration. I know of some cameras that have Long exposure as Fireworks mode, but its not quite the same, and practice a lot. Most of my shots never turn out as clean as the above but I'm getting there
  25. Members occasionally posts blurred moving rides type shots.The following example by @Tim Holmes (Photo by Tim Holmes) How do I do it please? (keep it simple please, I'm used to using my camera on fully automatic ) Many thanks Bill
  26. that's a great idea Bill. I hope that Marc Burgers will be one person who joins because for me he is one forum member who really knows how to capture the true atmosphere of a funfair